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Access is via 25 km of unsealed roads and a notice discourages those towing caravans. Caravans! How about anything other than four-wheel-drive?
It also proved to be a dream destination for this techie enthusiast. Our B&B hosts were former Americans, now naturalised Kiwis, who'd built their own beautiful - and beautifully functioning - house overlooking the Sound. He now sculpted animals in pewter but before that had designed Formula One and Indy cars for Mario Andretti, Mark Donohoe and others.
Pan-fried terahiki was accompanied by Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc. Then we stepped on to the balcony and inspected Saturn through his powerful telescope. Gradually the earth's rotation caused the planet's image to ease itself out of the viewfinder. Hmmm.